rebar will give a longer lasting job , if you have an SUV or equivalent its essential go for Eight 10 inches minimum but check there are no services (gas water electricity sewer) under the drive before you start if there are and you do not move them you’d be unwise to use rebar Reply
rebar will give a longer lasting job , if you have an SUV or equivalent its essential go for Eight 10 inches minimum but check there are no services (gas water electricity sewer) under the drive before you start if there are and you do not move them you’d be unwise to use rebar
Re-bar would help settling but isn’t necessary Definitely add a expansion joint if you have any slope towards the garage consider a trough drain
Use rebar. Concrete as great compression strength, but very weak expansion strength. When you drive on a concrete slab, the tires will compress the upper surface of the slab, but there’s a bending force that will expand the underside of the slab. Eventually, the slab will crack and destroy itself. Wire fabric is good for lighter loads, but not for a car.
Use 16mm 3/4 round bar and drill 300mm 12 into existing garage slab at 900mm 3′ intervals 100mm 4 down from top of concrete ,cut the round bars into 600mm 2′ lengths, grease ,with any kind of grease,half the length of rod and, then whooops beer time, have a coldy then clean out holes and push greasy end into holes. Use f8 mesh on 60mm 5 chairs. Use a 12mm 1/2 reo bar tied to the mesh 50mm 2 in from outer edge all the way round. Put dummy cuts every 3m 10′ eachway. When the concrete is top set ,broom across path to help with non skidding or colour stamp crazy patterns. Wow I forgot to say when you put greasy rods in you need to use a tar impregnated jointing material to cover exposed garage slab face. Also you should have 100mm 4 slab with 100mm thickening round external edge. Best of luck do not forget, concretors like to drink cold beer.
The rebar doweled into the garage slab will prevent the slab from settling against the garage slab. If you do not continue the rebar throughout the rest of the slab it can crack at the point the rebar stops if the ground settles below the slab. I’m not sure why some of the other respondents are directing you towards allot of unnecessary overkill. If you want some free advice from a professional, then do this. Set your forms for a 4 concrete pour. Place an expansion joint against the garage slab. Place three mil poly an the ground and use wire welded mesh in the pour. It is critical that the ground you are pouring on is stabilized. If it’s wet do not pour on it. The next critical part is the placing of control joints (the notched grooves in concrete). You need to place them at a maximum of 10′ apart in the pour in both directions. You should just have 1 in the center running from the street to the garage slab, and the perpendicular ones not exceeding 10′. You should try to make them equal size for asthetics. The purpose of these are that concrete will crack, and the control joints essentially tell the concrete where to crack, but it will do so on the underside of the slab. You’ll also need to place additional expansion joints if the slab is over 20′ long. You need expansion joints every 20′. As far as the concrete itself 2500psi is sufficient. Because it is outside make sure to broom finish the pour after you have done the finishing of the pour. I hope this helps. Good luck
if you drill and pin into your existing floor, you better have a good base under your brand new pour…because if it wants to move you risk messing up your floor…i would pour it six in. with either fiber in the mix or wire mesh . i dont put re-bar in my slab work…order air and at least a 3500 lb. mix..sorry rick z but 2500 is a footer mix and wouldnt hold up where i live on account of the freezing and thawing…