What is the best type of concrete to use for a driveway?

I have to have my concrete driveway redone. Should the the whole driveway be poured with six inches? Or is four inches for the driveway enough and then six inches for the apron?

I am confused on what mixture is best for concrete. A contractor and a building inspector told me fly ash is no good to have in the concrete.

But then according to http://www.flyash.com/, fly ash is good to have in the concrete.

So obviously someone is lying. What is the truth? And what questions do I need to ask to find a competent concrete contractor?

Can anyone give me a reasonable ball park figure as to how much contractors charge to tear out the old driveway, and pour in the brand new concrete, which would also include the rebar and possibly some gravel? Does $4-$8 per square foot sound reasonable?


4 Comments on “What is the best type of concrete to use for a driveway?

  1. Use asphalt. That stuff will hold way longer than concrete.

  2. pour it at six inches and use foundation mix #6 slump

  3. Yikes!!

    First – for a driveway – you will want 4,000 psi *AIR-ENTRAINED* (6-8%) concrete with ten x ten x ten (ten inch by ten inch by Ten gauge) welded-wire-mesh reinforcement and poured 6 (6) inches thick over a minimum of 6 (6) inches of coarse gravel.

    Air-entrained resists salt, freezing, thawing and spalling. 4,000 psi is a slow(er) cure over 5,000 psi so will give a longer service life.

    Properly placed and of the correct mix, concrete will outlast asphalt about 5:1 with very little or no maintenance.

    Fly ash in concrete is a good idea if you are an industrial user, have a major road project or are in some other position that allows you to very carefully engineer the concrete placed on your project and specify it in sufficient volume that your supplier will produce exactly what is needed as needed. For a home project – stay far, far away from it.

    New small-project concrete in the Philadelphia region runs about $4.25 per square foot, including removal. Add about $1.75 for brand new gravel if required, and about $0.75 for the mesh. No telling if you need curbing or a curb-cut but if so that would be extra. Comes to a ball-park of $6.75 all-in. Difficult conditions, steep slopes, curves and similar issues will add to that cost. Straight runs with no complications and an existing curb-cut will lower the cost.